So here’s the deal. We went to the permit office and they told us they only sell permits to the left waterhole canyon - and that you need repelling equipment to get down (and they’d have to see it). They also sell permits for the rainbow bridge (a 18mi trail). And to just go to the trail head for a guided tour. They started this may 1st. We got there and it is $35 per person for a 1.5ish hour tour with a guide. They said they did this because there was so much garbage and vandalism happening in the canyon (so sad- the guide showed us where they had to scrub it off). So we went at 10am on a Friday - it was beautiful and we had six people in our group and one tour guide who was very nice and waited for us while we all got our pictures. No other tours happening at the same time. No rush at all and still a very cool canyon. They drive you to the end in a van and you walk back, so no in and out.